Deep Blue T5 37 74 PC74 PC37 LED Bulb Dashboard Instrument Light

I don’t review much, but I am so thrilled with these bulbs in my ‘99 Wrangler TJ cluster that I was compelled to share. The glare in the pic is just a photo blemish, they are perfectly bright and not overbearing. You will have to do some trial and error to match polarity. I replaced and checked each bulb 1 by 1, and reversed the polarity as needed.

works good

Wow, made my old tj jeep dash look new again. Easy install but remember you can no longer adjust brightness.

I was expecting something different but in all honesty it’s working

These LEDs fit the in place of the factory bulbs in the dash of my 78 k20, (dash, wiper switch back light and AC/heat control back light). I bought 1 pack and that was enough to replace all of them. I assume these lights SHOULD fit other years of C/K series Chevys. As far as performance goes they are WAY better than factory bulbs… they’ve only been in for 3 days so I cannot say anything about longevity.Hope this helps somebody…

Yes, I flipped the bulbs to double check polarity, 3 failed when other bulbs worked just fine. 3 stars only because of a 7.54 deal, the ones that did work are bright and they ARE adjustable with the rheostat control.That said, these were advertised for a 2004 Sequoia. I understand such designations are though Amazon's vehicle selection process, so it is not so much that these fit but can be 'made' to fit where it's close enough to fit though a couple have to be turned just so, unlike OEM that have full fit. Let's just say they are a little awkward.I didn't want to be one of those unfortunates that didn't check function before putting the instrument panel (IP) back, only to discover half of them don't work.So here is what I did. My vehicle has three connectors behind the IP that most people disconnect in order to install the bulbs. I noticed that the main wire bundle with those three tails was secured further back in the dash cavity.Using a fastener removal tool, I popped the plastic retainer of the main bundle which allowed me to pull the IP put further leaving the three connectors connected. This say, I would install a bulb and see right away if it worked.What I did was make sure to be mindful of what side of the bulb (with a number stamped on it) and the twist lock socket (lettering on the back) for reference. I notices that direction the lettering of all the other sockets in the dash were facing (upside down) so made sure the new ones did too.Then I guessed and used the side of the bulb with the number stamped in it (the other side was alpha-numeric) and slid the bulb in. 50/50 odds.Some LED bulbs take a little effort to wedge in the socket, even the ones they came with and even having used I used a small dab of dialectic bulb grease. Luckily, the LED lit the first time up, so no guessing game from there on out.I had three LEDs that would not light. Yes, I flipped them just to be sure that the bulbs didn't have random polarity gates, and tested by inserting known good bulbs in the IP sockets.A 70% rate of proper function is very impressive. However, the ones that did work were both VERY bright (too bright for my wife) AND dimmable, at least in my vehicle.The problem with dimming the I bP lights is that the remaining Incandescent bulbs in the radio/HVAC panel dim too much. I hadn't considered that. Now I will have to find more LEDs for so all of the panel lights can be dimmed evenly across the board.

Works fine in 1989 Jeep Cherokee

only 1 out of the 8 lights worked and completely messed up my instrument cluster. yes i tried flipping bulbs and still didn’t work. now i have to buy a new cluster. complete garbage