Milescraft 1213 Hinge Mate 300 - Complete Door Hinge Installation Kit with Latch & Strike Plate Templates. For use on Doors and Jambs

After reading the reviews on Amazon, I have decided to buy this product in spite of few negative comments left by some users. This is an excellent product and here it is why: 1. I am not a carpenter, however I am an engineer who does some DIY projects without being a pro. So If I can use it, many other people can - no special skills or tricks required. 2. The package offers 8 templates for different size of hinges and locks, coverig most of the sizes available and allowing for both the door and the jambs to be mortised. Templates are not "flimsy", they are made out a stiff plastic, with ribs. The metal frame that supports the templates is sturdy. 3. Adjustments are easy to make and the booklet explains it well. No issues. 4. A router bit is provided, which is nice. Saves on additional time spent to go shop for the bit, in case you do not have one and adds to the value of the package. Sure, the user still needs to pay attention, measure properly, clamp the frame in place, etc. This is true for every carpentry work. As someone who tried before chieseling the hinges out, or routing them free hand, I can say that this set of templates saves big on time and accuracy. I feel I recover my investment after one single door project.

Complete kit for door hinges and strike plates. I used this on the door for the deadbolt plate and I used it on the jamb for the strike plate. It is easy to set up and works to make a perfectly clean mortise for the plates. I’ve always used chisels and they has worked fine but never leaves the rounded corners like this does with the included router bit. Overall very happy.

Okay, so I haven't found another product that is as accurate as this, but I wasn't able to get it that accurate without some add-ons. My main beef with this, aside from the cheesy little screws that they include for attaching the jig to your door, is that the part of the jig that allows you to see where on your tape measure you are is pretty far away from the door itself, forcing you to eyeball the measurement. I can tell you after using the eyeball method while I was replacing the doors in my house, that this is NOT an accurate way to locate your hinge mortise. The next time I used the jig, I did things a little differently: I put the old door underneath the new one, then screwed a scrap of plywood to the end of the door closest to where I was going to cut the mortise (see picture). The plywood sticks out farther than the jig, allowing me to take a measurement from the old door, then get the tape measure right under the little indicator space on the jig, accurately locating it so I could then screw it to the door. I wish there was a different way of attaching the jig, the screws leave a lot to be desired, as the screws have to be placed dead center in the holes, otherwise they pull the jig to one side or the other. The other modification I made was a larger base plate for my trim router, made out of a square of plexiglass that is larger than the jig itself (see picture). This made it easy for me to slide the router around and not worry about dipping one side too much and gouging the mortise. In summary, while there are some annoyances here, this jig does have the ability to be very accurate. I haven't found another that works this well

If you've ever had to mortise a door you know that it is nearly impossible neatly and exactly unless you use a jig. I used one of the box store adjustable plastic jigs for several years but it was hard to get it to fit tightly or sit tightly on the door and so I finally broke down and bought this. The jig itself is very sturdy and he comes with its own router bit. When I like particularly about this set is that it has the templates for the latching mortise which is usually where I'm using it. If a door sticks, and he had to take the edge down, you have to deepen the latch mortise and this is a perfect tool for it. Strike plates also although you sometimes have to remove the trim, even with the jig, to properly route them. Well worth the money when you consider the aggravation and time it requires to do it with a chisel and the perfect cut that you get with the jig. I use a small router, which I highly recommend.

Easy to use, clean, and fast with my hand router. In the past I used another jig I borrowed for 9 doors a long time ago. This time I had just one door to do but the doing it by hand with round corners is not easy so I got this jig. The templates were a decent fit for the 3 1/2" inch rounded hinges I bought. Most of all, it left a clean cut. The only down side is the template jig has to be screwed into the piece to be secured. You will have a handful of screw holes to putty and stain/paint, I highly recommend for anyone who doesn't fit doors frequently and wants a clean cut. Having used this I think that the people who had issues with it did not know how to use a router or were careless and hit the plastic frame with the router bit.

Seems like a good system in theory- actual execution not so much. The metal frame sits against the door jamb or on the door, a cam system adjusts it's position depending on door thickness (3 standard thicknesses are represented). Two small screws hold it to the door or jamb in position (you'll have to fill these screw holes with filler to complete your job- something to consider if you're using unfinished or clear finished natural wood- not a problem if you'll paint the door or jamb). A variety of router templates are included, they friction fit into the metal frame and guide the included 1/4" shaft router bit to make the cut. You have to set the bit depth manually of course. Router bit has a ball bearing, so you do not need to use a bushing. The templates are made of pretty thin plastic (black in my kit, not red as pictured) that do not fit into the metal frame well. They are slightly too large, so once you push them into place, they tend to pop back out. Looks like some sandpaper will be needed to sand off flashing from manufacture so they fit flush. That fit is required for the routed cavity to be the correct and even depth- if one side of the template backs out as you cut, your cavity will be uneven. Hinge templates for all common sizes of hinges are included, striker plates, etc. Very comprehensive kit for the occasional do it yourself-er, not at all for a professional who needs to use it repeatedly- it will not last under industrial strain.

Works Great if you have any idea what you're doing. As for the 1 and 2 star reviews, clueless users. 1. If your templates are red, you didn't purchase the 1213, they're black. 2. If the cut out in your templates are not the stated size, that's because they're not suppose to be, the extra space is for the bearing to ride along the inside edge. The mortise will be cut out at the correct size. 3. The cutting edge of the router bit should never come into contact with the template, if it shatters your template by hitting it you have no business using a router. 4. The screw holes in the side of the door are no big deal, use a little wood filler. The hinged side of the door is rarely ever seen and no one will ever notice it. Use clamps on the jamb instead of the screws, no holes. 5. If none of the templates fit your hinge, why would you purchase it ? The hinge sizes that it will fit are clearly stated. Or why wood you purchase it and then purchase a hinge that the templates won't fit ? This is most likely another case of someone who thinks the cut out in the template is too big, refer to #2. 6. If the instructions for your templates are only correct for outswing doors, you are definitely clueless. The instructions shouldn't need to tell anyone to screw the template facing the opposite direction to install the hinge in the opposite direction. The template itself shows you which direction to place it on the door. 7. If your steel frame will only adjust for doors up to 1 3/8" in thickness, what can I say, you're beyond clueless. Actually the steel frame will only adjust down to 1 3/8" in thickness, try turning the knobs in the other direction so they point at the 1 3/4" and then you can mortiss a 1 3/4" thick door. Interior doors are made 1 3/8" thick, exterior doors are made 1 3/4" thick. The frame is made to mortiss 1 3/8" and 1 3/4" doors, it isn't that difficult to figure out how to operate this thing.

Here's why I gave this product 5 stars: - You can produce GREAT quality mortises with it. - It's EASY to use. - It's a GOOD VALUE. What I like: I cut mortises for 10 door latch plates yesterday, without taking the doors down off the hinges, and they all came out perfectly. The template was large and solid enough for my full-size router. What I didn't like: The measuring target on the template is about an inch above the cutting area, so in my case I had to project the center of the latch hole to the center target on the template. I used a laser level, but I'm sure you could also do this with a measuring tape. Also I dropped it once and one of the knob/spring/cam assemblies came apart. It was simple enough to reassemble and tighten the little setscrew that holds everything together, but it shows that this is a DIY homeowner type tool - it doesn't seem to be designed to tolerate abuse. If I had lost any of the little pieces I'd have been in trouble. This is a great kit and I'd recommend it to a homeowner or to anyone who would use it occasionally - and carefully.

Brilliant product and service

Love this set of templates as there is a template for everything required in order to core a door. Works great and easy to use!

me parecio un poco caro cuando lo compre, pero vale la pena, haces los trabajos mas rapido y con un terminado mas preciso. Soy carpintero y creo que vale la pena la inversion.

Can't tell from the description, but it would seem that standard US hinges are far wider than those in the UK. I guess you could make your own spacers, but may as well make your own template if that was the case.

Pros: Really helps with mortising hinge and strike plate cutouts on doors. It works on jambs, too, if the doorstop is not installed. Cons: Centering it is not straight forward. One has to find the method that works best and with fewer errors for them. I am not a fan of attaching it with screws then filling the holes, but I understand this system allows it to be used on both doors and jambs and have a reasonable price.