6-in Machine Sharpened Tile & THINSET REMOVAL BIT, SDS Max!! (6" X 14")

works great, good price

This worked perfect with a 20 lb, 14 Amp demolition hammer at removing 12" x 12" tile from my plywood subfloor. I started the demolition with a three inch bit and that worked fine, but thought I'd try the 6 inch bit to see what would happen. Not only did it do a great job of removing the thinset, but it also removed the tile and backerboard so much faster than the 3 inch bit did. I know this was sold as a thinset removing tool, and it is, but it also worked really well for me removing a large amount tile.

I do tile demo and thiset all the time for my business. This is a very good solid and strong blade!! I recommend a good demolition hammer of at least 8lb of impact energy such as the Makita HM0870C 11 lb. Demolition Hammer for small areas.

I almost didn’t buy this tool because of some negative reviews, until I actually read them. I am always amazed at how quickly people will blame the tool rather than their technique. This chisel is heavy duty and does an excellent job. Yet, one person claimed it is not “sharp.” Of course not. You are chipping masonry, not cutting a tomato. You need a blunt, stout edge. Another person said it broke off and ruined their drill. Yeah, that happens to any bit if you force it and don’t keep the chuck socket greased. The bit overheats and the metal fatigues. Finesse goes a long way in the trades and it is much overlooked. You need to get an adequately sized rotary hammer and then let it do the work. The bit must be kept well lubricated and it needs to be allowed to float to do its job. Why do you think there half an inch of end-play when it is locked in the chuck? Using this bit in a Bosch 11264EVS, I cleared 3/8 inch of thinset from 40 sq. ft. of concrete like I was scraping mud off of my boots. Maybe 30 minutes of work. Afterwards I wiped the chisel off and it looked brand new. Take the time to choose your tools well and understand how to use them. This 6 inch chisel will do fine for any job as long as you apply it correctly.

For starters, I liked the fact that this thin-set blade was made in the USA. The cost was less than what you would pay in most home department stores. I ordered it one day and it was delivered the next morning, which was a plus. We used this to chip about 1700 sq’ of thin set up for a new floor to go in. The blade never lost its sharpness and only flipped it one time to keep the right angle down for the thin set. I am going to purchase another as a backup.

This was pretty useless for removing tile. I ended up running to Harbor Freight and picked up a 2 inch scaling chisel (Hercules brand) for 20 bucks instead, and it ripped through the tile and was easily sharpened with a metal file. The blade on the HF chisel was slightly curved, which really helped get under the tiles. This 6 inch chisel was straight and very dull/rounded and seemed like it was designed more for using the demolition hammer's vibration for breaking up thinset without damaging the concrete slab underneath. The sharper HF chisel would easily chip the slab if I hit it at the wrong angle. For removing tile, start with something thinner, sharper, and with a built in angle, espefially if you're hesitant to spend so much money on this one. Like me, your brain might tell you, "But the time I'll save with a 6 inch chisel will offset its uselessness compared to the little 2" chisel." But don't fool yourself! If you have poorly installed tile, you might get lucky with this, but it did almost nothing for my stone tile that was installed well onto slab.

First I used the tool to remove tile set with thin set on a concrete floor. I used a Bauer 11.5 jackhammer from Harbor Freight. This worked quite well as the tiles came up easily. The thin set was a different story. It took significant effort to chip it away and I still had to rent a concrete grinder to remove what was left. I would say that using the tool was a significant part of the process but at least in my case it did not do the whole job like some of the you tube videos would lead you to believe.

Tip of the metal shaft broke inside the chuck tube after just 2 days of use. The edges where it broke expanded and now the tip is stuck down in the tube and will not come out. Since I can't get the broke piece out, it looks like it ruined my brand new hammer drill and I will now have to buy another one to replace it. Why would you sell something that is going to break in that part. I could understand if it broke on the blade or even the shaft part that is exposed. But the tip? Thanks for setting me back time and money.