ELMERS Rotted Wood Stabilizer 16 Oz (E760Q)

It is highly effective for DIY projects like fixing a rotted door jamb or a decorative pillar. It’s the "Stage 1" of a two-stage repair.

Purchased the product due to reviews. Instead of using the bottle I simply poured some into a disposable plastic cup and used a disposable paint brush and soaked all of the rotted wood area (after I cleaned it out as best I could). At first I did not think the product would take as it looked like the wood was simply soaking it all up. Thinking I would have to come back with a second coat. I looked at it the next day and sure enough the product had sealed the rotted wood area and it almost looked like a varnish was left behind. Smells like good ole fashion Elmers glue. Came back later with Elmers rotted wood putty purchased here on amazon and finished the job with the putty to seal it up. Both products worked well together from what I can tell. Surface Repar Epox Offwht 12oz

The squeeze bottle application was helpful in enabling me to get the stuff in all the nooks and crannies. It took quite a while to cure completely (it was 50-60 degrees outside) but it seems to have sealed the defect adequately and it seemed to bond with the Bondo I used over it. The Minwax stabilizer actually penetrates the wood whereas the Elmers product does not, so if the rotted defect is deep and extensive, I would use the Minwax product first. And if you're as anal retentive as I am, you would use the Minwax product first, followed by an application of the Elmers product.

I've been using the Minwax wood stabilizer for years and, while I've been very pleased with the performance, I've really disliked the strong chemical smell it has. I tried the Elmer's stabilizer since the Minwax was out of stock and, while it does not entirely match the performance of Minwax, it works more than good enough and has very little odor. The main difference between the Minwax and the Elmer's is that the Minwax soaks in quicker and easier, and has better penetration deep into the wood. The Elmer's gets in there as well (provided you use a brush and dab it on liberally) but does not soak in as quickly or as well. Once applied and allowed to dry, there does not seem to be much, if any, difference in performance. The Minwax seems to produce stabilized wood that is just a bit harder, but I don't have any way to truly measure that other than by feel. Both turned rotted wood into a base that holds patching compounds very well. Even if the Elmer's does not perform 100% as good as Minwax, I'll continue to use it. The performance is more than good enough, it's easier to use, and has very little odor. That makes the Elmer's the better choice for my needs.

We've used this to repair rotten window sills and termite damage on both vertical and horizontal surfaces. It has never failed to work. Recommendations for working with this product: 1. Remove completely loose pieces of wood first. This will bind very effectively to weak wood, but it's not like concrete that you can just mix with gravel. 2. Allow 72 hours for full cure. It will start to dry after 30 minutes and be mostly dry after 24 hours, but won't achieve maximum hardness for a few days. 3. In its liquid state, it's about the consistency of regular Elmer's glue. That makes it hard to use on vertical surfaces. We've had luck covering over deteriorated wood with tape, pouring the Wood Stabilizer into the crevices, and letting it cure in place covered by the tape. It's not a perfect solution, but works well enough. Just be prepared to watch it for 30-60 minutes as it leaks out. Once completely dry, it paints easily and looks like it will last for many years. We've been using it for two years and have not had any problems with deterioration.

This is a water based product and seems to be basically a glue. I have used it and will continue to use it because it is solvent free and that is the right thing to do. That having been said it has some faults. It does not soak in as well as the solvent based hardeners. It does not resist further water intrusion as well so it must be covered with something that will. It does not dry as fast and more time must be allowed before applying any covering. If used on deteriorating particle board it will cause further expansion and crumbling. That is exactly the thing you are trying to fix. It does work though and it is cheap. If you are in California you probably can't get solvent based ones anyway. Rob Sez: Get some. It's the right thing to do. Use it when you can. When you can't then use Minwax Wood Hardener.

I have used this stuff for years to fix rotted siding on my 70 year old house in a very humid environment. Of course the most efficient repair is to remove and replace the rotted wood, but sometimes that is more difficult or labor intensive than time permits. I have found this product to work well by chipping out the rotted wood and covering the area in Elmer's Wood Stabilizer. I can then fill in the area later with plastic filler and then paint. I have also found that when replacing siding, if I cover the end of the cut board with this, it prevents water from leaching up into the ends of the board and causing rot or split later. I have left rotted spots covered with this for over two years of exposure and they never rotted further. I have seen reviews slamming the product, and I cannot figure them. I first read about this product in a book on house painting. I have used it and like it. The only problem is now it is getting harder to find because it is no longer carried at Home Depot and Loews.

The product did exactly what I expected from it. Will continue to use it for stabilizing rotted wood

great stuff....been using it for years!

Works fairly well on horizontal surfaces where it can penetrate before drying. A brush is needed for to applying to vertical surfaces where it tends to run off.