Official Creality Ender 3 3D Printer with Resume Printing Function and Stable Power Supply, High Precision Printing and High-standard V-profiles DIY 3D Printers Printing Size 8.66*8.66*9.84 inches

If you’ve been on the fence about diving into 3D printing—or if you're looking to upgrade from a finicky, bare-bones starter machine—the Creality Ender 3 S1 is an absolute home run. Creality took everything that made the original Ender 3 a community favorite and added the exact premium upgrades users used to spend hundreds of dollars modifying themselves. Out of the box, this machine feels like a refined, modern workhorse. Key Highlights The "Sprite" Direct Drive Extruder: This is the star of the show. Unlike older Bowden tube setups, the direct drive extruder handles flexible filaments like TPU with absolute ease. It offers incredibly precise extrusion, meaning fewer clogs, better retraction, and crisp print details. CR Touch Auto Bed Leveling: If you've ever owned an older 3D printer, you know that manual bed leveling can be a frustrating chore. The built-in CR Touch system takes a 16-point measurement of the bed before printing, automatically compensating for any microscopic unevenness. It saves time and guarantees a perfect first layer almost every time. Dual Z-Axis Leadscrews: Creality didn't skimp on stability here. Powered by dual synchronized motors, the dual Z-axis ensures the x-gantry moves perfectly level. This drastically reduces "Z-wobble" and gives tall prints an incredibly smooth, professional surface finish. Quick Assembly: You don't need an engineering degree to set this up. The printer arrives 96% pre-assembled. You can realistically have it unboxed, put together in about six easy steps, and printing your first test model in under 30 minutes. The Printing Experience Using the Ender 3 S1 is a joy compared to its predecessors. The removable PC spring steel magnetic build plate offers fantastic adhesion while printing, and once the bed cools down, you can simply pop the plate off, flex it, and your prints snap right off. No more dangerous scraping with putty knives. It is also remarkably quiet, thanks to the 32-bit silent mainboard. You can easily have this running on a desk next to you while you work without being distracted by the typical electronic whining of older machines. The Verdict Rating: 4.5/5 The Creality Ender 3 S1 bridges the gap between budget hobbyist machines and high-end plug-and-play printers. With the Sprite direct drive, CR Touch leveling, and rock-solid dual Z-axis stability, it eliminates the most common headaches of 3D printing. It’s an exceptional investment for beginners who want a smooth start, and a powerful tool for veterans who just want a machine that works. Highly recommended!

Not the fastest, but print quality is just fine inside a heated enclosure so cool air drafts don't mess up prints. Exactly as I expected after seeing my friend's more expensive version did better prints from inside an enclosure. I bought PLA and ABS filament, and the PLA is good without needing the enclosure, in a warm room, but an enclosure does help it do better. ABS requires a heated enclosure unless you live in a hot desert, as expected. Very reliable and easy to use. No clogging. Prints come out accurate, with a nice finish. Can't speak of durability this soon, but I would bet money that I will find it durable eventually.

Update: Creality was very quick to respond to my issue with a warped build plate and took care of the problem. I'm happy to report now that bed leveling is a breeze and I don't have issues with my prints sticking in the center anymore. I've come to expect QC issues with these 'inexpensive' Chinese, shall I say gadgets. So having something out of the box that isn't perfect is OK with me as long as the seller/company takes care of the issue, in this case Creality did so pronto.. so thank you. Overall this is probably the best bang per print volume out there and I wouldn't hesitate to buy from creality again. This isn't my first 3d printer (does anyone buy just 1?) Ordered a few weeks ago and just now having some time to get it setup. A couple notes that may help others during the build/setup. Out of the box, the pre-assembled lower portion was not built straight/square. This is a pretty easy fix, loosen all the bolts that hold the extrusion together and set it on a level surface and re-tighten all bolts. The Z stepper mounting didn't line up nice and square, you need to loosen all those mounting bolts, get the Z screw running and then tighten down when straight/square. I think I even saw some shims or mounts on thingiverse to address this. My build plate is warped/bent. If I level in the corners the print wont adhere in the center. If I level the center, the nozzle digs into the corners. Scratched my build mat all to hell trying to get that workable (which I can't). I did email creality and we'll see how they respond and I'll adjust my rating based on that. I would just buy a glass bed for it, but that's another $30, and it's warped enough that that glass wont sit flat enuf to heat properly.. then I need a thermal pad.. grrr.. there's more $$.. just get me solid level bed and build mat and I'll be happy. Overall this is a good solid printer and great value for the $ that I would give 4.5 stars if my warped bed is addressed, until then I'd have to say it's a 3

I'm writing this review after a long first day of printing. I'm pretty happy with it, honestly. This is great value. After having built a larger but remarkably similar printer from scratch, I'm also not convinced they're losing money on it. So at least this isn't a case of Chinese dumping. It's simply a good product at a fair price, for once. My first two prints came out looking fantastic. The provided white PLA wasn't enough to complete the dog model, but my somewhat old and probably wet yellow PETG printed just fine as well. Adhesion was quite good on the provided print surface. Obviously, your results may vary. I don't know how good their quality assurance is, but most Chinese manufacturers seem to struggle with it. It could be that I got one of the good ones. The rails aren't bent, the belts are intact, the steppers all work just fine. The electronics are noisy, though. Given the price, this isn't surprising, but it is something most people will probably want to upgrade. Going with something with TMC2208 or better stepper drivers will almost certainly solve the problem. Overall, I'd say it's a good printer for beginners, but not if you're a buffoon or just not mechanically inclined. Learn how to tune this in, and it'll serve you very well. Ultimately, I gave this four stars instead of 5 because of the noise issue and because the manual doesn't mention the single most important detail for making this printer really shine: adjusting the delrin wheels. Since the manual doesn't mention it at all, I'll give a quick explanation here: the delrin wheels that form the linear bearings for this printer need to be properly tensioned. Do _not_ expect the factory setup to be anywhere near correct. Even if they got it perfect, the shipping process can knock them out of alignment again. The printer comes with little wrenches just for this purpose, so use them! On each set of wheels on the X and Z axes, there is one wheel that is mounted on an eccentric spacer. You can identify it because it has a hex shaft instead of a round one. The larger wrench in the kit should fit this hex. If you turn it, the wheel is pushed slightly inward or outward because it's mounted a little off-center from the bolt hole. This is how you adjust the wheel spacing to make the bearing tighter or looser. You should make it tight enough that you can't feel any play when you try to twist the bearing set, but not so tight that it's difficult to make it roll along the rail. You shouldn't be able to turn the wheels against the rail without the whole thing moving along the rail too. If you still have trouble, take your printer apart again and make sure the ends of the rails weren't damaged in shipping, causing them to not mate up squarely. Since the rails are aluminum, it's relatively easy for the sharp corners to be deformed from minor bumps. If the corners are deformed from impact damage, you should file/sand the deformity off so that the face of the end of the rail can mate flatly against the side of the rails you're bolting them to. If your rails are bent, you'll have to take that up with Creality. There's a warranty for a reason, and that definitely counts. If you aren't sure if your rails are bent, take two of them and place them together lengthwise. Rotate one of them 90 degrees a few times, checking if you can see light coming through between them. If you can, at least one of them is bent. Get a replacement. You spent money on the damn thing, make sure you get what you pay for!

I tend to pay the low reviews little attention when making a decision to buy a product, but I'd be lying if I said that I didn't approach my online buying habits with a bit of caution and skepticism. Having looked at the reviews of this printer (both good and bad), I figured I could 1) use this printer to figure out how I was going to get into 3D printing, and 2) "get by" with something cheap while dealing with the current economic turmoil. The only thing this printer has provided is an intro to 3D printing/modeling and an unhealthy amount of paranoia (I'll explain shortly). One pain point was that the package came requiring assembly. I've never had a problem assembling products I have purchase in the past, but the instructions were nothing more than pictures that were difficult to visually decipher. Have become so lazy that we can't use words any more? Moreover assembly didn't really instill much confidence in the quality of the product. I mean this thing has to print in the X, Y, and Z coordinates. Surely alignment of the equipment is an operational "must". Dye cutting and drilling (in my experience) is never 100% accurate to ensure proper alignment. I'm worried that alignment might actually be causing my issue. The issue that I'm experiencing is actually that the printer isn't successfully printing above 4-5 cm. I attempted an overnight print that came out with the bottom half looking fine, while the top half looked like a cat had gotten hold of bundle of yarn and went to town. The print head looks like it's going to take some work to get the PLA off it. I'll probably have to boil it to break the PLA loose. Due to the horrible results of my first real print, I changed the head and filament and increased extruder temperature by 10 degrees. The results were better, but the print was still compressed at around the 4-5 cm height mark. I remember listening closely to the printer while it was printing and remember some very distinct and loud clicks in the motors. This was going on a lot and started to make me paranoid that the vertical stepper motor wasn't advancing. I believe the stepper motor that controls height of the print head was struggling to turn at multiple points in the print. Thus, the printer head wouldn't increase in height at certain points. It would explain why I see compression lines in in the prints. I think this is all caused by misalignment of the rails on the left and right sides of the print head. When assembling the printer, it was rather difficult to attach the top rail to the 2 side rails after they had been secured to the base. I felt like I was going to have to bend the side rails to get the screws to line up on top. I suspect that the ridiculous amount of tension on those rails is what's causing the vertical stepper motor to struggle to turn, and I can't think of a way to fix it other than machining my own aluminum rails. I've started a 3rd print today, but before starting it, I tried loosening and re-adjusting the top and bottom bolds on the left-hand rail (closest to the vertical stepper motor). The print will be done late this evening. I will review the quality and update this review with new information. Other notes: The adhesion bed is a B to get off of the prints. Be prepared to spend some time with a box cutter and some band-aids. The stepper motor that controls the filament feed cannot handle the weight of an entire 1kg spool of filament. It will skip repeatedly if there's too much tension on the filament. I guess the hanging weight of the spool above the printer is too much for it. So be prepared to babysit your printer and unwind some filament to prevent skipping. The printer is pretty loud. It would be nice to go throw this in my closet or garage where I would never have to listen to it. Unfortunately, that's not possible because I have to continuously watch it to make sure it isn't turning my filament into tangled fishing line.

Before starting your first print Level the bed (it comes slightly unleveled) Measure the correct amount of Esteps for the extruder. Mine was slightly under-extruding. (Calipers are recommended) After watching plenty of videos on the Ender 3's print quality, I decided to buy one. Out of the box the bed comes a little unleveled so leveling is required (no matter just release steppers, take a piece of a paper and raise/lower the bed until paper catches). My machine came with the newer with the 32 bit board and comes with a bootloader for easy firmware flashing, no Arduino needed just load .bin onto SD and turn on the machine and flash. The first thing you should do upon receiving the printer is checking the bed is level. A nice way of simplifying this process is to flash a brand new Marlin firmware with manual mesh bed leveling enabled (which is a great option if your bed came warped. The wonderful thing about the ender 3 is that it is so common, there are plenty of modifications that can be made since the community for it is huge. A BLtouch is a mod that people put to automate the bed leveling process. Once you get this printer you're gonna feel like purchasing many upgrades for it. The printer does come with a loud stepper driver so if you don't want to hear whirring and beeping for hours on end place the printer into a room or buy Creality's 4.2.7 board with silent stepper drivers or SKR Mini E3. As for overall print quality, it takes a couple of prints to tune in the settings making this printer a great first printer for starters however it does take a decent amount of time to level the bed and get settings right. Finally, buy a raspberry Pi 3 or better and webcam for OctoPrint. Essentially, it allows your printer to have WiFi printing capability among other tools like WiFi monitoring. notifications via Discord and timelapse snapshots. Octoprint is truly an amazing piece of software and if you have this printer, use it!

Watch the third-party free YouTube on-line beginner videos BEFORE building. The included assembly sheet is VERY confusing … and I’m an engineer! The videos make good points about how extremely important it is to make sure the printer’s frame is absolutely square in all three dimensions. Just gradually tightening the bolts in a rotation (like when tightening the bolts/nuts on a vehicle wheel) isn’t good enough. The Z limit switch mounting bracket has a nub on the left front corner (looking from the front of the printer). Some videos say to clip it off (e.g., with diagonal wire cutters or heavy-duty shears), which is the only way that I could get to perform the bed “leveling” process. The process actually positions the bed parallel to the X-Y plane of the printer’s frame (left-to-right, and front-to-back). Some people mistakenly try to use a carpenter’s level to “level” the bed, but if the printer isn’t sitting on a perfectly level table/bench surface, and the bottom of the printer frame isn’t exactly parallel to the supporting table/bench surface (not likely), a carpenter’s level won’t be of any use. Threading the printing filament past the gripping feed rollers and into the white feed tube to the print head is very tricky. Some videos show that it helps to unscrew the brass fitting attached to the feed tube and get the filament to protrude out of the right side of the feed mechanism about an inch (25 mm), then screw the brass fitting back into the mechanism after pushing the fitting over the protruding filament. That makes it possible to get the filament into the feed tube - I couldn’t have accomplished that step without that hint. Getting the end of the filament into the hole beyond the gripping feed rollers was extremely frustrating, as the hole is impossible to see, even with bright lighting, as the hole passes through a black plastic housing behind the very close rollers. The menu items are somewhat different on my printer from any of the manual versions (included on the USB thumb drive, on the Creality.com site, elsewhere on-line, or what’s shown in the videos. I was able to guess that the Motion menu item was what had to be selected from the main menu in order to get to the Auto Home and Disable Steppers menu items, needed to perform the “leveling” steps. Once I had stumbled through the assembly sheet, then discovered the YouTube videos and done things right, printing was pretty straightforward using the built-in micro-SD card reader. I haven’t been able to scale a model down in the included Creality subset of the free, open-source Cura “slicing” software. The provided gcode files print just fine, but not the .stl files after scaling and saving as gcode files. The printer only displays and prints from gcode files that the slicing software generates from .stl (3D Object) files. I’m trying to resolve this issue via on-line searches and forums.

Super amazing value and super easy operation (I recommend Ultimaker Cura slicer it's way better than their own slicer) print quality is great and I love how upgradeable it is. I used an ender 3 for 4 years (using it pretty consistently for my 3d printing business I run selling 3d artwork and pushed it pretty hard at times and it made the whole cost of the printer back) before I ended up replacing it with an ender 3 s1 pro because I love the ender series so much and wanted an upgrade plus it had some parts needing replacement (I could have replaced the parts for cheep but it was an excuse to upgrade) If you're looking for a basic 3d printer to get started this one is perfect for you

Excelente equipo. El ensamble es bastante intuitivo y con ayuda del manual lo llevas bien. Desde la primera impresión salió excelente.

I bought this printer as well as the Prusa Mini+. Surprisingly, this printer turns out to be easier to manage and comes up with better and nicer prints. The Prusa Mini+ had some initial teething problems - particularly pertaining to prints being dislodged as it was not sticking to the print plate. I used glue-stick and finally decided to use 90% IPA alcohol solutions, which eventually worked. During this time, the Creality became my most reliable 3D printer! This printer was certainly worth more than the price I had paid and I would recommend anyone who is interested in 3D printing to get one! I absolutely didn't regret making the jump - even though I heard horrible stories about support for this printer.

Cumpre seu papel! Ótima!

価格に比べて非常にクオリティが高いので満足です。梱包も完璧で開封時に何の心配もありませんでした。組み立てに必要な工具はすべて同梱されていました。テスト印刷用のフィラーも少しだけ同梱されていてありがたいです。 microSDカード（説明書とスライスソフト、ドライバ入り）がＵＳＢアダプタにセットされた状態で同梱されているので、同封されている紙の説明書ではなくまずはmicroSDの中のＰＤＦの説明書を読みましょう。こちらに組み立ての詳細説明が日本語で書かれています。 組み立てと調整が少し必要なので初心者よりは中級者向けなのかもしれません。テーブルのレベル調整の方法は説明書に詳しく書かれています。上部で平らな台の上で作業すると組み立て精度が出しやすいです。ベースのフレームはモータドライバとテーブルのスライドが組み立てられた状態で梱包されていますが、足部分の部品をいったん緩めて平らな台の上で締めなおすと良いです。結束バンドが同梱されていますが、ケーブル類のどの部分をどうやって固定するかは書かれていないですが工夫して固定しました。 スライスソフト（日本語対応）の設定項目はとても細かく、上級者でも様々な材料のための条件出しの研究が十分できます。印刷時の騒音はとても小さいです。自分で調整した設定はすべて名前を付けて登録できるのでとても便利です。スライスソフトからはgcodeが出力されます。設定でフレーバが選べるので他のプリンタ用にも使えると思います。Ender3はMarlinフレーバのようです。ソフトからはプリンタを選択するだけで必要な情報（機械の寸法情報、gcodeヘッダフッタなど）がすべて自動で入力されます。完全にカスタム値を入力することもできるのでプリンタを改造したり自作したものにも対応できそうです。私はマイクロＳＤカードにgcodeを保存してプリンタ正面のmicroSDスロットに挿入して、カードから印刷しています。 ステッピングモータの動作も滑らかで速いです。標準設定でＡＢＳ，ＰＬＡが問題なく印刷できました。ＴＰＵは少し調整が必要でしたが押し出し量１２０％に修正したら層間剥離なく密着されて良好な印刷ができました。印刷中にパネルでベッド・ホットエンド温度を変更できるのが便利です。

基本的にはマニュアル通りに組み立てればよいのですが、ケーブルなどの引き回しで試行錯誤する箇所があり少々悩みました。最終的には何度かやり直して組み立てることが出来ました。 もう一点困った点は、ステッピングモーターをステーに固定するブラケットが直角が出ていない事。 付属のブラケットを使用すると、Ｚ軸のボールねじが鉛直にならずモーターに不要な負荷がかかり、最悪脱調してしまいました。ブラケットを若干加工し、直角を出すとスムーズに動作しました。 また、付属のＳＤカードの耐久性が悪いようなので、到着したら内容をＰＣなどにコピーしておくと良いと思います。 総合的には、安価でそこそこの精度でプリントできたので、満足です。